Видео

@@oh5148 sadly it does 😂 not as bad as 77 but still some. Once cleared its not visible tho

ahahahaha, yes the Doggos are part of my workshop hahahahhahaa

Do I normally just use regulard epoxy. This is a first time I am making a heatshield so will test and see how it fails. I plan on putting heat tape on the backside but not sure how much it will help or not help. Only one way to find out! :)

@@webreakforsquirrel4201 so I actually do use the putty or filler if I have dramatic gaps or serious issues with prints. But if its to use it for removing layer lines than nah because by the time I add my primer layer all the lines are gone. They actually are gone after about 2nd stage of resin for me.

@@rekynw3869 i have not. I dont have any either so dont really wanna start buying more things to test with knowing this works lol. I tried using vinyl ester resin last week and ruined my part/mold 🤣

@@poltdesigns great to know about the vinyl:)) I have some uv resin on hand from the printers so might give it a try to see if it seals the parts well enough. Keep up the good work

I think a kitchen oven would work just fine. Its all about curing the resin. You can also just cure it at room temperature it will just take longer. Hope this helps.

@@DanielSchweinert im sure its coming soon! I know the einstar software has something already but my concern is proper mesh flow as well as having edges be accurate which sometimes the scan doesn’t pick up correctly due to budget scanner. This def is an annoying process 🤣

@@poltdesigns Yes for sure if you have to do 20-30 scans a day this is no fun at all. When I see what is already possible with AI (behind closed doors) this should be just a matter of time until we see parametric scanning in the public.

@@DanielSchweinert omg, I would never want to deal with optimizing that many scans lol. I just do a few models here and there, actually most times I make my own designs for my cars so I dont ever retopo, but since my buddy wants to recreat the exact same engine cover in CF he asked if I can do this for him. Def not going to do this again for a while 🤣

@@jorbedo but this would make the model a nurbs model not poly, correct?

@@poltdesigns yes, but you can convert to quads-mesh

I watched all your videos Aj! Will always give credit where credits due and your content has really helped me get started with this workflow. Only thing I think I dont do like you do, is I actually use the USComposites thin resin for infusion lol. Seems to work great thus far 🤣

@@poltdesigns I’ve actually used it for smaller infusions in the past so you’re not wrong there. But since we have a specific infusion epoxy for large parts I just use it across the board for infusions.

@@scurtudarius2051 oo!! I need to google this stuff. I did try remove gumtape after freezer one time and it sucked even more than warm lol

@@poltdesigns trust me, i ve been in the carbon industry half of my life. I dont leave it for anything. I use kalte spray from weicon. Idk if you can find it in the us but it s available in europe

@@scurtudarius2051 Thank you!! I just ordered a can. Not the one you use but another freezer spray thats also labeled as "Mould Release". Looking forward to trying!!! Appreciate the advice! <3

@@poltdesigns no worries. 👌 you should also move towards prepreg. Much easier and cleaner to use.

I would instinctually reach for a heat gun to relax the adhesive… I wouldn’t have guessed that freezing would work as well.

@@arogelj i use sonax cutmax with medium wool pad

@@hunterjames5819 yeap. 2 sessions of clear. First one was a base to level out. Second was final shell with wetsand.

@@poltdesigns Does the 3d spray adhesive leave any sort of residue on the surface? I can't see if it leaves small marks on video

@@hunterjames5819 so the 71 is a lot more friendly than 77 but def does leave something if abused. I try to be super minimal with it but sadly its still there. Wetsanding the cf layer does help remove most of it but once cleared its really hard to see.

@@poltdesigns OK thank you! I currently use super 77 but I would like to try something different.

@@hunterjames5819 ya 71 is made for composite and a lot more forgiving. 77 is just too sticky for my liking and the nozzle doesnt mist like the 71 does.

@@mike230224 sadly doesnt work with petg. But I am also not worried about the smoothing as i am about the mold being air tight which is why coating with resin is so critical. Otherwise air gets thru the filament during infusion.

@@BikerBenFromMars lol 😂😂😂. Normal riding this wouldn’t be an issue lol

@@tomyocom5886 the actual bike? I posted some stills of fitment test on my ig page, @perfzilla. Thats where I post most of the bts stuff since I am not really a youtube poster lol.

@@poltdesigns Fabbing parts for Honda , you definitely should be a tuber!!!

@@tomyocom5886 Ohh I dont sell them or anything. I just make 1 off parts for my toys lol

Hey Andy! Mixing stick makes total sense thank you. As far as the gloves, I 100% put them on once I am ready to paint/primer. I normally work bare hands but once I am ready to apply something that needs a clean surface I throw some gloves on and then Clean/Paint. I learned the hard way how important this is lol.

@@stevesloan6775 im actually making the part tonight! Just needed a better cover image than just a mold lol

@@zenginellc hahahaha. Yeah doggies always welcome in my garage 😂. Only time I lock them out is when toxic fumes. Otherwise its all theirs lol

Can you share the brand/name you use? Would love to look into this as well. I am by no means doing it the "right" way, just a way thats been finally not leaving me pissed with infusion lol

@@poltdesigns i use R&G. It's a german company i believe. And most of their epoxy products are aviation approved. I'm not saying u are doing it wrong. I just like the gel coat a bit more cause it's a little thicker like sirup.

@@TheTechnoaddict 100% agree. I might have to try a mold with your method. I do have Gelcoat laying around but its not epoxy lol.

@@poltdesigns don't know if it matters. Only used epoxy so far.

I honestly do not know. I tried to uuse tooling gelcoat on a test part and wasn't confident to use it on a real part. The primer is also very very easy to sand which is why I use it. And I have a gun for it so its easy to apply even as well as clean the gun after.